Redemption Rock Clothing

Text By Giuppy D'Aura

Rock is definitely the word that more easily summarises the inspiration of the young Italian brand Redemption, and yet there is more to be grasped.

Saint Laurent and Balmain, both in their own right, can claim rock inspirations, at least in the present. Unlike Saint Laurent, though, the brand co-founded by Bebe Moratti offers clothes that almost nothing owe to the past, because in his outfits there is usually no trace of nostalgia, melancholy or vintage.

The dresses were mainly very short and made with rich fabrics: from gunmetal lamé to sophisticated brocades, from leather to satin; whilst the colours that dominated the show, were purple and red (red seems to be one of the key colours of the season for several brands). There was a lot of black as well, but that does not really count being almost the trademark of the brand.

This collection was very much focused on dresses for the evening and most of the garments had strong shoulders, not the sort of shapes that are currently spreading amongst many brands, right after Gvasalia, groundbreakingly, took over at Balenciaga, but a gentler and more feminine kind. Moratti designed the dresses in a way in which the squareness of the shoulder, together with the small waist, could create sinuosity, and sometimes he enhanced it with very deep and sexy V shaped necklines.

So, how comes that the simple and easy-to wear silhouettes of the previous collections turned into this profligacy of sparkles and drapes? Well it seems that the answer could be found in the fact that Moratti presented his first couture show about a month ago in Paris. There, his creativity exploded generating something pretty different from the romanticism that most Couture collections are offering at the moment. It seems that Moratti started to enjoy draping satin on the model’s bodies. He enjoyed it so much that he couldn’t stop, and thanks god he didn’t, because Redemption is getting stronger and stronger at every season and most importantly is building a sharp Identity.

Redemption, apparently, is selling pretty well and 50% of its income goes directly to charity, this does not only speak about a very noble choice made by the people behind it, but also suggests that the brand was born out of an act of love. Love for beauty, creativity and clothes. Love for fashion, where selling is always important, but should never be the compulsion under which the designer creates, and Moratti seems to have set himself free from the imperative topic of coin. The buds of this brand are starting to bloom, with sparkles.